Back up in business after almost four months is the Crab and Boar at Chieveley near Newbury, one of the best restaurants in the south.

It’s about an hour’s drive from the Cotswolds and in the 10 years I’ve been going I’ve never had a bad meal.

The ownership has changed a couple of times but if anything the quality has gone up. And that is rare. When a favourite place switches ownership, standards tend to drop.

The Crab is perhaps a little expensive for some but then quality never came cheap.

They have started their menu on a slowly, slowly basis so when I went last week it was very much like a pub lunch rather than a full quality dining experience. But both the beef burgers and the chicken pies were just excellent with the Eton mess, the chocolate brownie and the plain ice-cream to die for.

While it’s not in the Cotswolds it is close to the Berkshire Downs and the drive to the venue is a delight, irrespective of the season.

Should you wish to stay the night as well then you are going to have wait a few weeks until the virus nonsense is a thing of the past.